If I were sitting on the back deck of our “haven” at the “cape”, savoring a crisp glass of San Juan Vineyards Afterglow Rosé, I would describe the shape of San Juan Island similar to a cluster of ripe grapes hanging from the vine. The southern end of this island narrows so that when driving past the turnoff to South Beach, you can see coastal water on both sides. With a national historical park, a working lighthouse, lagoons, miles of trails and beaches, and unbeatable views, the southern end merits a full day for anyone who loves nature.
You probably won’t be the only one here on a sunny summer day, but you will feel like you have the place to yourself. With limited street parking and a tiny parking lot at the nearby interpretive center, crowds are limited and the wide open spaces are vast. On my first visit here more than a decade ago, three women were standing behind easels, each with their own plein air painting of Cattle Pass and the tiny rock islands around Lopez. The views here inspire artists of all types.
American Camp National Historical Park is the first sign you are nearly at the cape of San Juan Island. When in American Camp, the short hike down to Grandma’s Cove is a must for sea glass collectors and beach combers. Wildlife abounds, history seems to come to life, and every trail offers a scenic view. Bring a picnic with some cold beverages because you won’t want to leave anytime soon.
A hike to the top of Mount Finlayson will give you the most spectacular views of Cattle Pass, the Cattle Point Lighthouse, Haro Straight and Lopez Island. There are multiple trailheads to choose from: Jakle’s Lagoon with a small parking lot nearly across the street from the South Beach turnoff, or by the street side pullouts before you get to the lighthouse, and several at the end of Cattle Point Rd. The road will end at a private marina, but if you turn around there you can find street parking and there are several different trailheads. My favorite trailhead is right by the marina and is my favorite because it winds along the water’s edge until it reaches Third Lagoon, where it splits off in several directions. And if you enjoy geocaching there is one down that trail. If on that trail, head to the left and up the hill when the trail splits if your goal is the Mt. Finlayson summit and best views. Head straight and slightly left if you want to continue around the backside of Third Lagoon and up the hill along the water. The trails are pretty wide and well maintained but can be steep on the climb to the top if you go straight up the hill. There are several trails that lead you to the top so if the one feels too steep, you can always back track and go a different way.
